Glueing the Leading Edge Stringer 
I glued in the leading edge stringer as well as an additional lamination on the wing tip bow. The reason for the extra lamination was that after shaping the nose area of the tip bow, there wasn't enough area for the leading edge skin to attach. The extra 6 inches of lamination along the underside of the leading edge gave 1/4-inch of glue area for the skin after shaping. That should be sufficient for the low stress joint.

I am trying a new (actually old) adhesive - Weldwood Plastic Resin. I really like T-88, but it isn't available locally. I can get it in St. Paul, MN at Rockler, but they only carry the very expensive 8-oz. kit. I can currently get WPR at the local Ace Hardware store, and it is MUCH cheaper. I think the plastic resin works fine, though I can see where it would be unforgiving of gaps.

Speaking of locally (well, kind of local) available products, I stopped at McCormick's Lumber in Madison, WI this weekend to get some 1/16" birch plywood. They were out of the plywood, but they did have a very nice selection of Sitka Spruce. The quarter-sawn rough-cut boards were 1"x9" in lengths from 14' to 18'. I didn't have to go into the stack more than a few boards to find one that will make some nice longerons.

Yes, the spruce is more expensive than the lumber at the local lumber yard (we do still have a lumber yard in Eau Claire, in addition to Menards) - but I haven't had much luck finding wood that I would make a spar or longeron out of. The structural grade douglas fir at Lyman Lumber was one exception - I found a few 2x10s that I could have used. Each timber could have yielded a couple one-piece longerons or caps, maybe double that with scarfing and laminating. That douglas fir was better than half the cost of the nearly perfect spruce - not worth my time to save so little.

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