When the opportunity to get a larger home in the country recently presented itself, we jumped at it. The new house has a detached heated shop, a 55'x100' pole building that might make a good hangar, and enough land to have a 700' airstrip with clear approaches.
Unfortunately for the RW-11, I will be concentrating on finishing the renovations to our current home before the closing date. I am also hoping to get a new bathroom in the new house as well. Boy #3 is due in May. Don't expect to see anything here for a while.
[ add comment ] ( 3 views ) | permalink |
( 2.8 / 81 )I glued the top capstrip to the shear web for the rear spar.
1 hr
[ add comment ] ( 3 views ) | permalink |
( 2.9 / 49 )I cut out the root and spar attach filler blocks similar to those for the front spar. These were then glued to the shear web, along with the intercostals and the capstrip doublers.
2 hr
[ add comment ] ( 3 views ) | permalink |
( 2.8 / 36 )I ripped out the upper and lower capstrips, doublers and intercostals. The lower cap strip was then glued to shear web.
3 hr
[ add comment ] ( 3 views ) | permalink |
( 2.9 / 27 )I scarfed together the shear web for the rear spar. The rear spar has a significant change from plans - it is full depth. I simply couldn't get the required strength from the shallower spar.
2 hr
[ add comment ] ( 3 views ) | permalink |
( 2.8 / 24 )I pulled the clamps from the spar and removed it from the table to inspect it. With the exception of one small area (about 1 inch long out near the tip) I had glue squeeze out everywhere, generally forming a 1/8" fillet. It is also fun to start holding ribs up to it to start getting a scope of the wing size. To me, the spar is exceptionally straight - I can't spot much deviation in the bottom at all, even with a laser. It's hard to tell with the glue drips in the way, but the top has perhaps 1/32" - 1/16" sag along the entire length. That may go away as I plane off the glue drips. (Aug 8 note: after cleaning up the glue drips, the top looks as straight as the bottom)
The images below show the spar before a lite pass through the planer to clean off the excess glue.
1 hr
[ add comment ] ( 2 views ) | permalink |
( 3 / 20 )I glued the top capstrip, upper cap doubler, tip lower capstrip, and the strut attach filler block into the spar. This required a lot of glue and I had to be quick in the August heat so that I had the clamps in place before the glue started setting. I had opted to do this in one session because I didn't care for all the removal and cleanup of the glue fillets where another piece was to be attached. In the future, however, I will be doing the filler block and doubler in their own session apart from the cap. In my haste I forgot to wipe the excess glue from the inside fillets after everything was clamped up. That's a minor cosmetic bother I suppose, but a bother nonetheless.
The image at left shows the strut attach filler block after the weights and clamps were removed, but before the excess glue was cleaned up from the back face of the spar.
2 hr
[ add comment ] ( 2 views ) | permalink |
( 3 / 20 )I ripped the spar top capstrip. This had an approximately 10 degree angle on the top to match the airfoil profile. I also made the 1 inch top capstrip doubler. and the strut attach filler block. The strut attach filler block was tapered into the spars similar to the manner in which the root filler block was tapered.
Because of the angular sheared Horner tips, the top cap strip ended up being about 15" longer than the 12' board I had purchased. Although the loads in the cap strips at the tips would be minimal, I decided that the right thing to do would be to scarf on the additional 15" of top cap length. As the glue set on the cap extension, I cut the bottom cap for the tip region from 1/2" thick spar material.
3 hr
[ add comment ] ( 2 views ) | permalink |
( 2.9 / 16 )I ripped out some 1/4" strips from the 3/4" stock to create the spar intercostals. I also made the 1/2" lower spar cap doubler. With 12:1 tapers at the ends, the lower cap doubler was made just long enough to fill the two bays on either side of the strut attach point. By my calculations, this length was sufficient to encompass the moment envelope peak that occured there. The intercostal locations were carefully marked out, then the intercostals and lower cap doubler were glued into place.
2 hr
[ add comment ] ( 2 views ) | permalink |
( 3 / 20 )I made the root attach filler block from spar stock and glued it in place. It was made just long enough to completely fill the first 9" bay, plus the length needed to form a proper taper into the spar caps. I made the taper as recommended in Roger's addendum to the RW11 plans by setting the diameter of an adjustable bit to the width of the block, then drilling out the center of the block. This produced a nice half-moon shaped bite out of the end of the block, eliminating the abrupt transition that a squared off block possesses.
1 hr
[ add comment ] ( 1 view ) | permalink |
( 3 / 25 )
Calendar
